As planned, I took my second zero today. The day was spent doing laundry, resupplying and resting some “tired dogs.” They need to be ready for the final push to Damascus. Although, I’m planning to decrease my mileage through Grayson Highlands and Mount Rogers. I should arrive in Damascus on June 1. (5 nights on trail.)

One thing that has impressed me on the hike is the experience that photographs cannot do justice. This includes wide vistas, night time views and especially smells. The May flowers are in full bloom on the mountains. The smell of grass and sage fills the air walking across meadows. Here are some flower pictures:

Oops 😬Poison Ivy

There are also unpleasant smells. At Chestnut Knob shelter a thru-hiker was arranging his pack. When he opened his clothes bag, the smell that came out nearly knocked me unconscious. A thousand homeless people don’t smell that bad. 🙊

AT Thru-Hike Stats
Section Day #18 (5/27/19)
Start – Mt Rogers Nat. Rec. HQ (534.2)
End – Mt Rogers Nat. Rec. HQ (534.2)
Today’s mileage: 0.0
Total section miles: 195.6
Total miles on AT: 912.0
Section avg daily miles: 10.9
“Zeros” taken: 2
Section avg w/o zeros: 12.2
Distance to Damascus: 63.6

May you taste, smell, and touch
your dreams of a beautiful tomorrow.
– Jonathan Lockwood Huie

Finally today, I ran into trail magic. And this one was serious! The Settlers Museum has permanent trail magic in their school house and the local church did a cookout on location during the day today as well. I stopped by about 9:30 in the morning and got the first burger off the grill. 🍔

Schoolhouse @ Settlers Museum

The Cook!

The hike today was a difficult one. There was lots of elevation gain and the trail was very rocky. The view from up top was worth the climb.

Overlooking Marion, VA

I ran into a 70-year-old thru-hiker without a trail name. He is now “Three Feathers.” He’s been collecting feathers to signify how they “lighten the load”, both physically and mentally.

At the end of the day I got stranded at the Mount Rogers HQ and had to hitchhike down to Marion. I got a ride with a nice couple; I sat in the backseat with their Chihuahua, ha ha.

I’m spending the night in Marion and plan to do my second zero tomorrow. I’ll be getting ready for the final push to Damascus through Grayson Highlands and Mount Rogers.

AT Thru-Hike Stats
Section Day #17 (5/26/19)
Start – Long Neck Lair (545.7)
End – Mt Rogers Nat. Rec. HQ (534.2)
Today’s mileage: 11.5
Total section miles: 195.6
Total miles on AT: 912.0
Section avg daily miles: 11.5
“Zeros” taken: 1
Section avg w/o zeros: 12.2
Distance to Damascus: 63.6

Hope is the thing with feathers
That perches in the soul
And sings the tune without the words
And never stops at all.
Emily Dickinson

Today I left the Quarterway Inn and hiked 10 miles to Atkins, VA. I’m at the Long Neck Lair for the night, sleeping in my hammock after a shower and dinner at the local Mexican restaurant.

I covered the 10 miles in 7 hours, in spite of lots of up and downs; I even almost stepped on a black snake crossing the trail.

I passed the 1/4 mark for northbound hikers (3/4 for southbound).

And finally, I hiked through the area where tragedy struck only about 10 days ago.

AT Thru-Hike Stats
Section Day #16 (5/24/19)
Start – Quarterway Inn (555.7)
End – Long Neck Lair (545.7)
Today’s mileage: 10.0
Total section miles: 184.1
Total miles on AT: 900.5
Section avg daily miles: 11.5
“Zeros” taken: 1
Section avg w/o zeros: 12.3
Distance to Damascus: 75.1

Clouds come floating into my life, no longer to carry rain or usher storm, but to add color to my sunset sky. – Rabindranath Tagore

Today I left Chestnut Knob Shelter early morning. First part was through an open field on top of the ridge.

Then it was down and over several other ridges to the Quarterway Inn. Did 14 tough miles today. I have a blister, but will save you the agony of a picture.

It’s a hostel; I got a hot shower 🚿 and laundry 🧺 done. Breakfast was amazing.

And now magic! There are thousands of fireflies 💡 around the hostel. There are twinkling ✨ lights everywhere!

AT Thru-Hike Stats
Section Day #15 (5/23/19)
Start – Chestnut Knob Shelter (569.7)
End – Quarterway Inn (555.7)
Today’s mileage: 14.0
Total section miles: 174.1
Total miles on AT: 890.5
Section avg daily miles: 11.6
“Zeros” taken: 1
Section avg w/o zeros: 12.4
Distance to Damascus: 85.1

He is richest who is content with the least, for content is the wealth of nature. – Socrates

I set out today to hike to the next shelter, Chestnut Knob. The shelter sits at 4400 feet, so I knew it would be a long climb all day. And, oh boy, was it! Elevation gain and the terrain made it one of the most arduous days of my hike. But, I made it here!

The view from the shelter is fantastic! Supposedly the sunrise in the morning will be really nice as well.

Tomorrow I am setting off to go to a hostel, the Quarterway Inn.

AT Thru-Hike Stats
Section Day #14 (5/22/19)
Start – Jenkins Shelter (580.4)
End – Chestnut Knob Shelter (569.7)
Today’s mileage: 10.7
Total section miles: 160.1
Total miles on AT: 876.5
Section avg daily miles: 11.4
“Zeros” taken: 1
Section avg w/o zeros: 12.3
Distance to Damascus: 99.1

You just can’t beat the person who never gives up. ― Babe Ruth